I Fought L.A. Traffic Just for This Beef Noodle Soup - Bon Appetit

This is Highly Recommend, a column dedicated to our very opinionated editors’ favorite things to eat, drink, and buy.

Before I even booked my flight to Los Angeles in November, I knew I was going to eat at Yang’s Kitchen. For months, I had been seeing its beef noodle soup pop up on my Instagram. And at this point, the weather was dropping in New York—and I needed it in my life. So when I got to L.A. (on a 90-degree day, no less), I drove all the way from Venice to Alhambra (a 40-minute journey on a good day) to meet the noodle-y bowl I couldn't stop thinking about.

The soup is filled with a broth that’s beefier than a #GymBro. That’s because chef Chris Yang simmers bones from Santa Carota cows (they eat grass and carrots!) for more than 24 hours. The wide, chewy noodles that bob in the broth are freckled like they’ve been getting sun, thanks to Grist and Toll’s freshly milled whole grain flour. Then there’s the beef shank and brisket, both braised to peak fall-apart-y texture. And the cilantro, the scallions, and the fresh chrysanthemum greens. And the fermented mustard green relish that I want to Oprah (a verb) to every dish I eat moving forward—“You get fermented mustard green relish! And you get fermented mustard green relish!” I’ll yell as I finish each dish with a generous dollop of the pickle-y condiment.

So if you can’t tell by now, the bowl was everything I imagined it would be: deeply rich and satisfying, and exactly what I now crave on both 27-degree days and 90-degree days. Oh, and yes, I posted a photo of it on my own Instagram for all the other soup scrollers out there.

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January 06, 2020 at 06:37PM
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I Fought L.A. Traffic Just for This Beef Noodle Soup - Bon Appetit
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