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Mastro’s opens Friday in Union Square with $240 Kobe beef, $50 cocktails - San Francisco Chronicle

The owners of the high-end Mastro’s Steakhouse chain are betting big on San Francisco with the opening of a 14,000-square-foot, three-level restaurant on Friday.

Just off Union Square, it will be the first Northern California location of the national steakhouse group, owned by Texas corporation Landry’s, which also runs Morton’s the Steakhouse, McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood & Steaks and Joe’s Crab Shack. Mastro’s is the most upscale of the Landry’s brands.

The San Francisco restaurant boasts a whopping 500 seats, floor-to-ceiling windows, shiny silver booths, a terrace with a retractable ceiling, black Calacatta marble from Italy and a 4,000-pound chandelier.

The design screams opulence, and that air of luxury carries over to the food and beverages.

The main dining room Mastro's Steakhouse centers around a 4,000-pound chandelier.

The Union Square restaurant will be certified by the Kobe Beef Association in Japan to serve Kobe beef from coveted Tajima cattle. For $240, guests can sear their 4-ounce portion on a hot stone, then dip precious bites in chimichurri, jalapeño ponzu or spicy mustard.

“It’s all about the experience and the show,” said general manager Ian Hoshino, who previously worked for Charlie Palmer’s restaurant group in Napa and Alexander’s Steakhouse in San Francisco.

Mastro’s is known for extensive wine lists — the Houston location won an Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator this year. The 700 options will range from $60 to thousands of dollars per bottle. There will be 60 original cocktails available between the restaurant’s two bars. The Baller, for example, features JCB Gin, caviar dust, shaved black truffle and white truffle oil for $50.

The rest of the menu at Mastro’s, which opened its first location in Arizona in 1999 and now has 18 locations including the new one in San Francisco, is a more classic selection of steaks, chops and seafood options. Signature dishes include Lobster Mashed Potatoes, Alaska King Crab Black Truffle Gnocchi, Warm Butter Cake and 2-foot-tall seafood towers that see dry ice fumes billowing through the dining room. There’s also sushi — a lobster roll goes for $29.

San Francisco has seen an influx of high-end steak-focused restaurants this year, including wagyu emporiums Niku Steakhouse and Ittoryu Gozu. Celebrity chef Tyler Florence is also planning an upscale steakhouse near the Chase Center. What will set Mastro’s apart?

“Our steaks are the best,” said Gregory Hammann, Mastro’s regional vice president. Apart from the Kobe, Mastro’s gets its beef from Wisconsin, cooks it in the broiler and serves it on a sizzling plate with clarified butter and parsley.

The filet from Mastro's Steakhouse, opening in San Francisco on Friday.

Perhaps more unusual will be the sheer size and range of dining spaces within Mastro’s. There’s a rooftop-bar like terrace, private dining room and slightly more casual second floor M Bar, where a grand piano is permanently stationed for live music every night.

“This is not a sedate jazz club,” Hammann said. “This is a lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere.”

The Bay Area has long been a target of Mastro’s, according to Hammann. The company plans to open another grand, two-story location in Santa Clara near Westfield Valley Fair in 2020. With its close proximity to Palo Alto and Silicon Valley’s many tech campuses, the next Mastro’s will likely try to deliver even more luxury.

Mastro’s Steakhouse. Opening Friday. Dinner 5-11 p.m. daily, bar 4-11 p.m. daily. 399 Geary St., San Francisco. 415-363-9539 or www.mastros.com

Janelle Bitker is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @janellebitker

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